Tasting
notes at release (spring 2002):
Coming on the heels of the extreme 1998 growing season, this year
'99 was off to another bizarre start. Freak snowstorms hit twice in
March and twice again in April. Global warming was not on our minds
as spring finally arrived in late May.
Because of this late beginning everything was late. Not a grape was
harvested in September: no Pinot, no Chardonnay, nothing. In my
twenty-one years orchestrating the harvest here, this was a first.
For a full four weeks we patiently waited, testing the grapes in the
lab and imagining greatness in the bottle.
In this business, patience has its rewards. The vines, with the full
extent of the warming sun, took their time to ripen the grapes. So
what if we picked a month late, the berries were perfect.
Totally barrel fermented and aged on the yeast until bottling in the
summer of 2000, this wine's breed and finesse epitomize this
vintage. The complexity, typical of the estate, is beginning to
shine yet this is still in a youthful stage. Yeasty bread dough,
sage and mineral aromas are added to the base of honeysuckle and
lemon. The impression on the palate is quiet at first and expansive
at the end. Classic wine in a nutshell.
Other late ripening years, i.e. 1976, 1978, 1983, 1991 have all aged
at a snails pace. There is something about the warming sun and the
autumnal equinox that gives these vintages full expression of this
mountain terroir. Give it another few years in the bottle and drink
with pleasure over the following decade.
Wine Spectator Weekly March 4
91 Excellent structure, rich and intense, a flinty style with
complex fig, apricot, anise and buttery notes, picking up citrus and
honey on a long, lingering, mineral aftertaste. Needs time; has a
good track record for improving with age. 2,774 cases made. -J.L.